I didnt expect anything when coming to Guatemala, because I just didnt know what to expect. I have a general idea of what people in the U.S. thought of Guatemala though, so let me give you a few observations so you guys can get a better idea of what its like here.
Crime. It is quite common for people to be mugged by robbers with machetes, knives, and a little less frequently, guns. I carry at least 100 quetzales (equivalent to about 15 u.s. dollars) on me at all times and I try to leave my passport in a safe place. Most of the time when people get hurt during robberies, its because they refuse to give up their belongings, or they dont have any money on them. Guatemala City is the most violent place in the country, and when I was there, I stayed in my hostel.
Cars. I have seen everything from new Mercedes, Jeep Grand Cherokees, and sparkling VWs, to piece of shit cars on the roads here. And, of course, all the old American school buses (aka chicken buses), packed with people and animals, three to a seat and standing in the aisles. There are poor people here, yes, but its not as dire as, say, in Cambodia.
In terms of roads, the pan-american highway, which starts in Alaska and stretches all the way down to the southern tip of Argentina, goes through central Guatemala. Its a well paved, well "signed" road. Though a lot of it is on cliffs and my shuttle and chicken bus drivers have no fear of speeding around corners, while i await my inevitable death. Let me tell you about one such instance. I took a shuttle from Panajachel to Antigua. As we got higher into the mountains, a heavy fog set in, to the point where the driver couldnt see two feet in front of him. This did not deter him from speeding at about 40 miles per hour along the edges of cliffs. I hid my head under my sweatshirt, laughing with the others in the car, but pretty sure I was going to die on that road and turn up in the U.S. papers the next day, "Stupid American girl died in Guatemala when her 5 dollar shuttle careened off a cliff into the Guatemalan forest. Remains yet to be found. Probably eaten by monkeys."
Other roads, within towns and out farther from the tourist areas, are cobblestone or in extreme disrepair. Kind of how you would probably imagine roads down here.
Houses. There are big houses, there are small houses, there are huge mansions and resorts being built for rich americans. Most houses in the Western Highlands are made with cement walls and floors and thatched or tin roofs. They have a central open air courtyard, which all the rooms in the house open into to. My host family had 9 people living in their house, including me. There were two kitchens, one bathroom, and numerous bedrooms off the main courtyard. Thats a pretty typical middle class home here. The family I lived with was upper middle class, just to give you an idea. Within the towns i have been in you dont see any tin shacks or huts or anything. No dirty children without shoes like I saw in Nicaragua. However, the farther away from the towns you go, the more you see that type of poverty.
Technology. Something surprising. Though I anticipated the numerous internet cafes, I hadnt expected to see the blending of ancient Mayan culture with modern technology. This is something I have found very interesting in the Western Highlands. In Xela, where I was for two weeks taking Spanish classes, there is a very large traditional Mayan community. Most of the Mayan women come down from the mountains to sell textiles and food in the local markets. Most of the women I saw in Xela wore traditional Mayan clothing, and many of them didnt speak any Spanish, but spoke Ixchil or other Mayan languages. Depsite their traditional wear and language, I saw them all the time talking on cell phones, writing emails at internet cafes (those who are literate anyway) to their relatives that have moved to Mexico or the States, at the mall beside me, checking out cotton underwear and bras.
People. Are really nice. People have been so helpful and kind to me. Most locals are totally down to take the time to have a conversation with me about anything. Pretty often they ask if Im voting for Obama and want to know what my religion is. I have gotten a total of 4 lectures on why Obama should win the election and how McCain would be like the third Bush in the white house, etc etc. Guatemalans definitely have an interesting sense of humor though. They love to make fun of each other, and us as well. I cant tell you how many times already the Guatemalan ladies have laughed at me, whether its because I tripped on the cobblestone street or am speaking really awful Spanish. The Mayan girls who are in high school and around my age are SUPER giggly all the time and whispering to each other constantly and laughing. It seems like most people are married and have kids by 25, at the latest, 17 at the earliest. So I dont think Ill be finding any latin lovers here guys. Sorry to disappoint. Not to mention that all the people are really short. I assume Honduras will be the same way.
Environment. So, I have pretty much stayed in the Western Highlands. I didnt go to the coast or up North where there are lots of poisonous animals and jungles. What I can tell you from what Ive seen though, is that Guatemala is fucking beautiful. There are mountains, volcanos, rolling green hills, pretty flowers, forests, that kind of thing. Its not so tropical all the way up here in the mountains, so most of the forests look like the ones in Nor Cal, except there are banana trees, orange trees, and palm trees mixed in. Nicaragua is still the most beautiful country I have been to though, with Costa Rica being a close second.
Water. Like most places down here, you cant drink it. Unlike some of the other countries I have been to though, many Guatemalans dont drink it either. The middle class families have pure water delivered to their houses. I brush my teeth with it though. Havent gotten sick yet. A lot of places wash their veggies and fruits with pure water as well, so I have been eating a lot more fresh stuff than I thought I would. In terms of hot water in the shower...ehhhhh...sometimes. Never any hot water in the sinks though.
Food. Plantains, beans, corn, things made of corn, rice, eggs, chicken, tortillas, potatoes, more plantains. sometimes avocados. more plantains. more corn. more things made of corn. eso es todo.
Its not so scary here, there are lots of tourists and a lot of really nice places to stay if you want to spend the money. the food is good, the people are nice, its pretty, and really easy to get around and be a woman travelling alone. So thats my little lecture on Guatemala.
4 months ago
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